Me, Myself & I 2023 part 2
BEFORE THE WALL
“Pleasure isn’t in the fulfilment, but in the pursuit.”
Pierre-Augustin Caron de Beaumarchais
01 Pre-Solo Preparation
Before soloing a big wall, there's a great deal to consider: planning, strategy, and simply transporting all your gear to the site. This section addresses both major and minor details you need to address before stepping onto the rock.
Where to Solo?
Before embarking on a solo climb, you must choose your route. For many climbers without the luxury of big walls nearby, I'd strongly suggest your inaugural solo take place in Yosemite Valley, even if that requires a transatlantic journey.
In Yosemite, you benefit from convenient access, ample route information, overhanging routes on pristine, solid rock, and many routes with bolted belays. Furthermore, the weather is mostly favourable, and you have access to climbing shops, gear stores, supermarkets, and a highly skilled rescue team. You're also likely to encounter other big wall soloists who can offer insights that no book can—sometimes even advising if you're unprepared.
By initially taking on smaller walls, like the Leaning Tower or Washington Column, you can hone skills in leading, hauling, and cleaning before challenging El Capitan—consider this your final assessment. Master that a few times, and you'll be equipped for walls that might not be as safe, steep, solid, or well-bolted.
If Yosemite isn't an option, Norway, the Alps, the Pyrenees, or the Picos might offer other notable routes. However, no location is as beginner-friendly as Yosemite, and you'll appreciate any ease you can get.