Me, Myself & I part 4
THE MIND
Soloing a wall is 80% mental and only 20% physical, which sounds OK, doesn't it, as getting your head read a climb can't be so bad? Unfortunately, 20% physical will be the most physical thing you will ever do, giving some idea of what 80% mental means. The mental side of a wall is where most solo ascents are made or fail, so this section is probably the most important one in this book.
THE SEED
Before you start, it's worth understanding where the germ on this plan comes from. Why do you want to solo a big wall? Is it based on something you read, a video you saw on YouTube, a slideshow, or maybe even this book? The reason for dreaming is worth understanding, as it may be called on many times – maybe even labelled as misguided or stupid – in the future. This solo seed will probably change as you embark on a solo project, especially your first, as the long road from 'idea' to 'action' will see many waypoints and junctions, taking months, maybe years. In this journey from the source to the sea, you may find that your motivations might change as you learn more about soloing a wall. Nonetheless, try and remember the seed of this ambition because, when things get hard, it could be the only thing with enough power to keep you going.
WHAT IS YOUR MOTIVATION?
The ego climber
Some climbers want to solo a wall for their ego, be hardcore, and live the dream. In my experience, these climbers don't last long, as soloing a wall requires great humility and self-understanding; you need to understand that no one cares or understands just what it takes to solo a wall, and what kudos you may receive is in no way compensation for what you will give. Within a pitch or two, the ego will be pricked, and this climber will return to the ground with an excuse.