Excellent advice. As for me, I’ve always adopted the attitude that no one will be there to get me out of trouble (even on popular crags or Chamonix), so I'd better know how to stay out of trouble and know everything I can about self rescue. That's saved me a couple of times most interestingly when I had to self rescue myself from about 24,000 ft on Makalu when I became blind due to high altitude retinal haemorrhages alone with nobody coming down and nobody coming up. Managed to stagger down following fixed ropes. Now, one of the main screening tests when I climb with new partner is to determine how well they know about rescue and extrication skills.
Nice one, a thought provoking , real and useful bunch of rattling thoughts rattled out. Aye I read the account of the Czech chaps tragic death , and thought of the choices that aren’t so straightforward or easy to choose in such situations, what would I have done.. and that preparation and knowledge in new places is important , not only the fun bits, the realities, sussing out a plan, the details, if things go tits up. Aye and that it’s best if we think for ourselves, not for others views or for worry of consequences when it’s the moment that matters. Reminders… always useful, learning from shit events , good things can be made from tragedies. Thanks for rattling that one out.. I think I’ll share it about, like the monoxide one, things that often get lost in the hype blah of getting out and about, but as, if not more, important for sure.
Excellent Post Andy, thank you! Good tips in here for any and every Climber..
I've been fortunate to have enjoyed a 5 decade long climbing career... Thankfully, I'm still going..
If you are new to this vertical world and stick with it long enough, you're going to find yourself in areas where self rescue is the only option.. No choppers, no search and rescue team is coming, even today with the extensive coverage of cell phones the weather can still completely shut down any rescue option.. For a day or two.. easily..
One Advantage I found early on.. was the importance of continuous education - never stop.. Read, read, read.. publications on Mountaineering accidents, constantly refine rope management - and clearly understand rescue techniques then imagine having to execute them in very nasty conditions.. Rehearse new more efficient techniques on a small wall before jumping on a grade 6.. always take a bolt kit with fresh bits when going for a big wall.. even if it's a big free climb.. anchors can get sheared off by rockfall.. Happens every year..
Before you use that cell phone.. Make absolutely sure you actually need a rescue.. Because that team is going to put their lives on the line trying to save you or your friend, especially on a big wall.. and most S&R teams always have a couple of newbies who could get themselves or you killed trying to get you safely down.. Self Rescue if it all possible..
Don't be a cheapskate either.. if you have to leave half of your rack to get off like I did having suffered a severe leg injury one time.. with 12 repels to get down.. .. do it.. 80% of all Climbing injuries/ fatalities occur because the newbies repel anchor failed.. Yes, it hurts your pocketbook but Leave.. at least two very good pieces.. 3 is better.. if the option exists...
One last tip.. train like your life depends on it.. because sometimes it does.. Sometimes you've gotta dig deep for 24 or 36 hrs. or ? .. Be ready..
Go Big like Andy! OK maybe not quite that Big but BIG as you can..!!
As ever, your analysis are careful and even painstaking but never pedantic. Great read 💯
Excellent advice. As for me, I’ve always adopted the attitude that no one will be there to get me out of trouble (even on popular crags or Chamonix), so I'd better know how to stay out of trouble and know everything I can about self rescue. That's saved me a couple of times most interestingly when I had to self rescue myself from about 24,000 ft on Makalu when I became blind due to high altitude retinal haemorrhages alone with nobody coming down and nobody coming up. Managed to stagger down following fixed ropes. Now, one of the main screening tests when I climb with new partner is to determine how well they know about rescue and extrication skills.
Nice one, a thought provoking , real and useful bunch of rattling thoughts rattled out. Aye I read the account of the Czech chaps tragic death , and thought of the choices that aren’t so straightforward or easy to choose in such situations, what would I have done.. and that preparation and knowledge in new places is important , not only the fun bits, the realities, sussing out a plan, the details, if things go tits up. Aye and that it’s best if we think for ourselves, not for others views or for worry of consequences when it’s the moment that matters. Reminders… always useful, learning from shit events , good things can be made from tragedies. Thanks for rattling that one out.. I think I’ll share it about, like the monoxide one, things that often get lost in the hype blah of getting out and about, but as, if not more, important for sure.
Excellent Post Andy, thank you! Good tips in here for any and every Climber..
I've been fortunate to have enjoyed a 5 decade long climbing career... Thankfully, I'm still going..
If you are new to this vertical world and stick with it long enough, you're going to find yourself in areas where self rescue is the only option.. No choppers, no search and rescue team is coming, even today with the extensive coverage of cell phones the weather can still completely shut down any rescue option.. For a day or two.. easily..
One Advantage I found early on.. was the importance of continuous education - never stop.. Read, read, read.. publications on Mountaineering accidents, constantly refine rope management - and clearly understand rescue techniques then imagine having to execute them in very nasty conditions.. Rehearse new more efficient techniques on a small wall before jumping on a grade 6.. always take a bolt kit with fresh bits when going for a big wall.. even if it's a big free climb.. anchors can get sheared off by rockfall.. Happens every year..
Before you use that cell phone.. Make absolutely sure you actually need a rescue.. Because that team is going to put their lives on the line trying to save you or your friend, especially on a big wall.. and most S&R teams always have a couple of newbies who could get themselves or you killed trying to get you safely down.. Self Rescue if it all possible..
Don't be a cheapskate either.. if you have to leave half of your rack to get off like I did having suffered a severe leg injury one time.. with 12 repels to get down.. .. do it.. 80% of all Climbing injuries/ fatalities occur because the newbies repel anchor failed.. Yes, it hurts your pocketbook but Leave.. at least two very good pieces.. 3 is better.. if the option exists...
One last tip.. train like your life depends on it.. because sometimes it does.. Sometimes you've gotta dig deep for 24 or 36 hrs. or ? .. Be ready..
Go Big like Andy! OK maybe not quite that Big but BIG as you can..!!