My mum tells me that as a kid I was never bored, and was always on the go, always doing something, which is something I seem to have carried over into my adult life (I suppose you’d now class that as ADHD or something?). This means I like to always have a project on the go, with one project often overlapping another, or, each project giving birth to the next, hopefully with each new project a little better than the last.
Finishing my “Down” book was an incredible relief, after a mammoth amount of work and stress (that book was literally written on the road, in Oceania, Arabia, Europe, Africa and North America), and so it’s been very rewarding to see its impact already on readers, with the book garnering 128 mostly five-star reviews on Amazon already, and I hope to see its messages filter down into the culture (namely, fewer dead climbers).
Of course, self-publishing a new book when all the climbing and book shops have been closed down around the planet for a year has not been ideal (my usual book royalties have gone down by four-fifths), but writing books is a long game, so I’m very happy with where Down is at the moment and view it more as a book that is slowly smouldering away, starved of oxygen, an underground book, but one that will one day be as common to climbers as “Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills”, or at least I hope so.
I had planned on starting a new book on clothing and equipment, titled “By a Thread”, but the more I work on a draft outline, the bigger the project appeared to be, with just handwear being a book in itself.
I’ve also had the idea of doing a follow up to Down, covering the belay chain, so belaying, belays, protection etc, but again, such a project looks to be a multi-year project (once you add in illustrating your own book, you quadruple the work/time involved).
Since 2014 I’ve funded all these projects via Kickstarter, which has been really effective, but I’m no longer on social media (I’ve gone back to web 1.0, with just my website and Substack newsletters), so I’m not sure how effective such a campaign would be, meaning I’d have to set my sights much lower, i.e a smaller project.
But the real spanner for me has been having a new baby appear in my life six months ago, as well as other hurdles (our house burnt down, we got deported from our home in the Middle East, etc), meaning for once in my life I didn’t have a new project on the go, as just finding an hour or two a day to keep up my Substack writing has been struggle enough.
But a few weeks ago I managed to sneak out between the showers and climb a classic - or maybe infamous - local route in the mountains of Connemara (Ireland), a 1,000 foot Hard Severe (or “at least HS”) named Seventh Heaven. The route is well known for being runout and scary, with very little protection, wet rock and vegetation (more moss and bog than mud and grass), and “problematic” belays. This was one of those routes that were pretty ungradable at the sharp end, where you know its sort of easy, but you also feel you could fall of any move, and if you did you’d probably die, and kill your partner as well (or “Technically OK But Don’t Screw Up”).
I climbed the route with a random person called Pat, who I met sat outside the local coffee shop (he’d seen Psycho Vertical, and spotted me sat there). It turned out I’d made a dangerous assumption about Pat’s climbing skills when I asked him if he wanted to climb Seventh Heaven, one warning sign being how he carried a pulley on his harness, that he called a “belay device”. Pat did have a belay device as well, although he subsequently dropped it while feeding the rope into it with shaking hands (luckily, I had a spare one, just in case).
One thing that stood out about the route, which was very cool, was how bad many of the belay were, each one being like a little test, their strength important when you might only get two good runners in a sixty-metre pitch (I also didn’t want Pat to die, as I’d only just met him).
Many belays featured really rusty pegs and nothing else, or a tiny tree, wobbly hanging flake, or just general unhealthy rock furniture (if there was a crack, it meant the something was loose and broken and hollow).
I’d not climbed for many months, and so we were a bit slow, climbing slow and steady, and didn’t top out until 8 pm, or get home till 1 am, but it was a classic day it.
Seventh Heaven was one of those climbs where you could think back to how you approach certain aspects of it, asking if you were safe, or how you could have done better, namely about how you dealt with the belays, if you kept your partner safe (as you were really more in guide mode). Thinking about this I thought back to other routes and their belays, the ones that were testing, where you had to sometimes make something out of nothing, belays on the Eiger, Mount Kenya, Troll, UK trad climbing etc (because there’s always something). And then it hit me, a new project, covering the subject of the belay, via a 100 belays! This book would be part illustrated instruction manual, covering both the basics and advanced belays, part anecdotal, learning through pictures and stories, bring all the skills, info and techniques together into one book.
I like the tied off peg. I suggested this to an experienced climber a couple of years ago and he had never heard of the technique. PS. We've all met Pat at one time or another 😜
I’d buy it. Though than thought how a second edition of your rope soloing book done more in your style from Down and Higher Education would be pretty sweet. Especially seeing a lot of the posts on the Facebook rope soloing page that makes me wonder how we ever made it as a species.
I am unbelievably excited for this possibility, I'd love to see it. (incidentally, I teach people to build anchors for a living, and both the example diagrams are completely novel concepts for me)
I think components of an anchor (carabiner, knot, pro etc) are like words in a vocabulary and I aim for eloquent anchors! Yep, got a few of your books now so will add this one to improve my vocabulary.
Great idea. There’s an art to both building a belay and also belaying itself. Indoor, outdoor, multi pitch, sport, ice, trad and rope solo. With many transitioning from indoor to out the various techniques and tips are invaluable but also having a discipline around your mindset and the dangers of drifting off when ‘just belaying’. Found the Down book awesome.
Missing your great podcasts.... helped me get through lockdown 2 when I was aimlessly wandering about the streets of Edinburgh. 😀
Really stoked about this one ! I loved Higher Education and Down, I think that something focused on belays would be really useful as the literature is quite complex and a little confused.
Knowing the strength and the nuances of different belays could be really valuable and save some lives
I really like that idea and will definetly keep a space on my bookshelf for it. Knowledge coming through experience is one of the most preciouse thing. You have got my support. Go for it.
I feel like this would be a great addition to down, belays have changed in recent years may to bolts in the populated climbing areas. Leaving a new climbing not knowing the difference between a marginal belay and strong belay. Problem solving for this and how to be safe while doing so can be big learning curves.
I Like it and I also appreciate your insights to social media, I would happily donate thru your website and even pass the info on to other friends todo the same.
Having moved a few years back (to Europe from the US), I find now that mostly I end up on single pitch or bolted belays, and this is the same during the occasional trip to Yosemite. But I used to primarily climb in no-bolts allowed multi-pitch routes, including at the belays. Back then, I got to experience the pleasure of solving the puzzle of creating a safe belay, as well as the panic and frustration of coming to the end of a long pitch with a rack so depleted that my first thoughts were "Oops, we're f**ked!" It's something I miss.
I've read 5 of your books, so perhaps positively inclined to any suggestion of you writing another. So, keep that in mind with my feedback. But, in my experience, there must be a lot of good stories, filled with emotion and useful learnings, on how to manage the belay - whether it's how to turn a dicey situation into a safe one or manage through the risk. I'd love to hear your stories. This would fill in that gap in what I'm missing and inspire me to get back to the bolt free world.
I love the idea. I think it's a doable project, and having a target number like 100 examples will help you stay focused and not spend too much of your life on it.
Andy I think that this is a great idea. There's a lot of stuff on Instagram and YouTube about various methods if belaying but what's missing is your perspective - they all assume that there are either two bomber placements to provide redundancy and security or there's more that can be stiched together. The missing bit is what if there's nothing there that you'd trust but you've run out of rope and you have to belay (or simul climb). I'd buy a copy.
Looks you found a new book...!! I really like the boundarys where you move (me, myself & I, higher education, down) so why not! Your ilustration skill clear the ideas, and your knowlege will help the comunity.
Given the fact that you could probably do a book on 1001 belays, I think a book covering the 100 most diverse belays in a detailed but concise manner is a really good idea! I'll buy it and support it in advance if necessary (as with Down on Kickstarter).
Having a repository of knowledge/techniques is always valuable but... 100 belays? Might this end up being gnat’s whiskers ie so finely divided and potentially elaborate that the mental stamina demanded from the climber/reader will be too much? A few simple proven techniques seem to have kept most of us alive....
New Book Project: 100 Belays
I like the tied off peg. I suggested this to an experienced climber a couple of years ago and he had never heard of the technique. PS. We've all met Pat at one time or another 😜
I’d buy it. Though than thought how a second edition of your rope soloing book done more in your style from Down and Higher Education would be pretty sweet. Especially seeing a lot of the posts on the Facebook rope soloing page that makes me wonder how we ever made it as a species.
Great idea! I would really buy it.
Great idea. Down in both iterations had become a main start in our club. A new generation is getting out!
I am unbelievably excited for this possibility, I'd love to see it. (incidentally, I teach people to build anchors for a living, and both the example diagrams are completely novel concepts for me)
Write it ! The life you save may be..... mine.
I can’t wait to get the book in my hands!
"Down" was worth the wait and I would back this one too. There isn't anyone else creating these types of works, and it's valuable.
I think components of an anchor (carabiner, knot, pro etc) are like words in a vocabulary and I aim for eloquent anchors! Yep, got a few of your books now so will add this one to improve my vocabulary.
Great idea. There’s an art to both building a belay and also belaying itself. Indoor, outdoor, multi pitch, sport, ice, trad and rope solo. With many transitioning from indoor to out the various techniques and tips are invaluable but also having a discipline around your mindset and the dangers of drifting off when ‘just belaying’. Found the Down book awesome.
Missing your great podcasts.... helped me get through lockdown 2 when I was aimlessly wandering about the streets of Edinburgh. 😀
Really stoked about this one ! I loved Higher Education and Down, I think that something focused on belays would be really useful as the literature is quite complex and a little confused.
Knowing the strength and the nuances of different belays could be really valuable and save some lives
I love the idea. Take my money. Please!
I really like that idea and will definetly keep a space on my bookshelf for it. Knowledge coming through experience is one of the most preciouse thing. You have got my support. Go for it.
Great idea
Let us know how to sign up
And to publicise the Kickstarter
I feel like this would be a great addition to down, belays have changed in recent years may to bolts in the populated climbing areas. Leaving a new climbing not knowing the difference between a marginal belay and strong belay. Problem solving for this and how to be safe while doing so can be big learning curves.
I Like it and I also appreciate your insights to social media, I would happily donate thru your website and even pass the info on to other friends todo the same.
Having moved a few years back (to Europe from the US), I find now that mostly I end up on single pitch or bolted belays, and this is the same during the occasional trip to Yosemite. But I used to primarily climb in no-bolts allowed multi-pitch routes, including at the belays. Back then, I got to experience the pleasure of solving the puzzle of creating a safe belay, as well as the panic and frustration of coming to the end of a long pitch with a rack so depleted that my first thoughts were "Oops, we're f**ked!" It's something I miss.
I've read 5 of your books, so perhaps positively inclined to any suggestion of you writing another. So, keep that in mind with my feedback. But, in my experience, there must be a lot of good stories, filled with emotion and useful learnings, on how to manage the belay - whether it's how to turn a dicey situation into a safe one or manage through the risk. I'd love to hear your stories. This would fill in that gap in what I'm missing and inspire me to get back to the bolt free world.
Excellent idea Andy.. As thorough as you are it will sell, go for it. I will buy it.
Regarding Pat, made that same mistake too one time.. learned that lesson..
Count me in.
I'm in, tell us how we support you/it.
I love the idea. I think it's a doable project, and having a target number like 100 examples will help you stay focused and not spend too much of your life on it.
I bought Down from kickstart project and i have anothers books writed by you...im already excited with this another project ... Go forward...
Andy I think that this is a great idea. There's a lot of stuff on Instagram and YouTube about various methods if belaying but what's missing is your perspective - they all assume that there are either two bomber placements to provide redundancy and security or there's more that can be stiched together. The missing bit is what if there's nothing there that you'd trust but you've run out of rope and you have to belay (or simul climb). I'd buy a copy.
I'll buy a copy
I really like down so I am hopefully looking forward to another great addition to the series
I’d buy it. But then again, I’ve bought every book you’ve written and published I think. Go for it!
Great idea, do it.
Looks you found a new book...!! I really like the boundarys where you move (me, myself & I, higher education, down) so why not! Your ilustration skill clear the ideas, and your knowlege will help the comunity.
Yep.
Given the fact that you could probably do a book on 1001 belays, I think a book covering the 100 most diverse belays in a detailed but concise manner is a really good idea! I'll buy it and support it in advance if necessary (as with Down on Kickstarter).
In other words, "SHUT UP AND AKE MY MONEY!!!"
Loved Down, this sounds interesting.
Having a repository of knowledge/techniques is always valuable but... 100 belays? Might this end up being gnat’s whiskers ie so finely divided and potentially elaborate that the mental stamina demanded from the climber/reader will be too much? A few simple proven techniques seem to have kept most of us alive....